While designers and models from across the globe mark fashion month for AW15, JLife considers the events’ top trends for SS15.
Designers in London, New York, Paris and Milan continued spring 2014’s love affair with head to toe whites, from sheer designs to plain nudes.
Autumnal shades – featured in Jasper Conran’s collection – caused a big shake up in London, while Topshop Unique showcased bold reds and other fashion houses favoured pinks in coral, magenta and bubble gum tones.
The Parisian event contrasted its love for whites with a passion for bright and bold colours too, with Milan picking out hot oranges, tangerines and pinks.
Designers put their retro thinking caps on to step back in time for their spring fashion styles. Both New York and Milan got into the spirit of the 70s – Milanese designers and fashion houses like Gucci and Prada confidently modelled flared trousers, dungaree shapes, waistcoats and neck scarves.
London couldn’t decide on a decade so had a bit of each. Matthew Williamson, House of Holland and Tom Ford gave the 70s a turn, with glam rock, psychedelic and disco references. Markus Lupfer and Orla Kiely seemed more driven by the 60s while Giles and Kane mismatched designs with influences from 30s through to the 60s.
Sports luxe fashion was still high on London’s style agenda with bomber jackets, tripe-trimmed sweaters, cami dresses and flippy skirts introducing a 90s twist.
Spring’s standout texture is denim – the super luxe houses like Gucci, Fendi, Bottega Veneta and Dolce & Gabbana chose to work with this statement material at Milan Fashion Week. The denim jacket was back at Gucci, cropped and buttoned while Fendi used the fabric in a head to toe look: super casual with denim polo tee and draw-waisted jeans.
Designers in New York – such as Alexander Wang and DKNY – experimented with the sportswear trend by introducing mesh into designs. Faux fur was also a surprising trend – Coach presented paвЂЋstel coats while Tommy Hilfiger focussed on star detailed styles.
Introducing a slightly edgier alternative to flowing fabrics, the Paris catwalks featured leather with feminine interpretations as seen at Louis Vuitton, Miu Miu and Givenchy.
Metallic fabrics were seen on numerous runways around London, in disco form at Tom Ford and in space age party dresses at Markus Lupfer. Patent leathers, hi-shine plastics or lurex-infused natural fibres, were used across all clothing weights and forms.
The European catwalks were abuzz with two key prints – stripes and floras/ faunas. Flora and fauna-inspired prints in flowing fabrics make for easy seasonal elegance, as seen at Valentino, Paul & Joe and Celine in Paris. London’s fashion scene saw Mulberry opt for florals in cornflower, delphinium and cow parsley form, Eudon Choi went for ditsy blooms and House of Holland opted-in with their psychedelic and vibrant style. Floral prints ruled the show in Milan with orchids set upon stripes at Alberta Ferretti, carnations against polka dots at Dolce & Gabbana and cherry blossom and posies at Antonio Marras.
Emporio Armani demonstrated the importance of the stripe for spring 2015, where blue and white versions played out in broad lines across suits and macs, and dresses were comprised of stripes in different directions. The pinstripe was revisited in Paris, most notably by Jean Paul Gaultier. Maison Martin Margiela and Sonia Rykiel proved that a subtle navy pinstripe can create a very modern and chic take on tailoring.
Milan, London and New York all voted in favour of culottes – the trouser shape of the season – with Gucci and MaxMara tailoring them into suits. Wide-legged legwear will expand for SS15 and items to look out for including culottes are loose fit city shorts (Paul Smith) and high waist flares (Matthew Williamson).
For occasion wear, a recurring silhouette at Milan Fashion Week was the strapless dress, particularly those with attention at the waistline either with a belt or with panelling.
The shirt dress hit the right notes in London with designers heralding this as the piece that will carry the season’s prints well and can be used to upsell accessories with its styling versatility.