JLife’s foodie Rick Sawes visits Eccup for a New Inn Taster Menu evening.
Surrounded by beautiful rolling countryside just minutes from LS17, The New Inn Eccup has been the archetypal country pub for ever, doing staple fish and chips, a steak, and a decent pint, with locals, walkers strolling the local area and thousands of visitors to Emmerdale’s tour passing through. But now, with Michelin chef James Key at the helm supported by his lovely family, this pub is going to new places.
The food has become something of an art form here, and word is getting around. The dynamic new owners have plans: the bonfire night in the adjacent field will attract 3,000 people, many bussed in from the park and ride to enjoy the firework and fairground festivities, the taster menus are always sold out, and there’s even an ice cream shack and a pizza oven in the garden. But it’s the ever- changing menu when James goes to work with his creative genius that stands it apart, and I couldn’t wait to review a taster menu exclusively set up for my partner and I.
I wouldn’t be disappointed. A warm night kept many away, but a few locals were dining al fresco, and the transformed spacious dining area was set up beautifully for what we were about to receive. And just to complicate matters, my partner required some serious considerations, vegetarian and gluten free, not a problem for our James.
To the menu, and with excellent service throughout, the staff began bringing out our five dishes. First a Curried Parsnip with Truffled Scrambled Eggs, beautifully served and a very tasty unique twist on, well, everyone’s favourite scrambled eggs!
Next, an imaginative Beetroot and Apple Gazpacho, with Avocado Puree, Beetroot Fondant and Vodka Jelly. Not one I’d have chosen from a menu personally, but that’s the beauty of this, it takes you out of your comfort zone, we both loved this sweet and thirst-quenching delight and would absolutely choose this again. This was followed by Sweet Chilli Boudin Soup with Fresh Haddock Sausage, the fish perfectly cooked and presented in a flavoursome sauce that we thoroughly enjoyed.
In the groove now, and this time we had separate dishes, my veggie partner trying a Wild Mushroom and Kale Lasagne, which she adored for its smooth taste, and for me, a fantastic Glazed Chicken with lovely crisp Roast Potatoes and soft Broccoli, a dish I definitely would have chosen, but cooked in a herb dressing that just made it, well, special. And finally, for both, some Blackberry Panna Cotta set with agar agar and topped with chocolate honeycomb, absolutely delicious.
The only way to describe this experience is to say, go and do it. Because to benefit from a skilled genius at work, you have to experience it firsthand. Try book in on the next taster menu night, or if you can’t wait, just book for lunch or dinner, Wednesday to Sunday, and enjoy some conventional cooking, but of the highest order.
The New Inn delivers excellent, genuinely locally sourced food offering veggie, vegan and allergen-friendly options. Eggs from the on-site chickens, blackberries grown in the garden, now that is properly local. Plus, meat delivered daily from a special supplier in James’ black book known for the only the best meat available in the UK. It may be more expensive, but it’s the quality that counts, as The New Inn at Eccup will be renowned for.
The New Inn
Eccup Ln, Leeds LS16 8AU
0113 824 5369
On Facebook @thenewinnateccup